The duck that keeps on giving

I keep having the same pesky kitchen problem. What is it? What is causing me to lie awake at night, tossing and turning? Two words: duck confit. A fridge that lately has been full of duck legs ever since I made a big batch of confit the other week (using this recipe). Man, is my life hard or what? I did a terrific confit and fava pasta the other night. I still had a couple of legs left and had to do something with them, if only so I could sleep at night. So I stole some ideas from epicurious, did a little riffing, and came up with a savory bit of salad deliciousness that would be a great first course at a dinner party. This was one of those fast, easy, and healthy (as long as you don't eat too much fatty-crispy duck skin, which w didn't but I of course did) salads that just felt good to eat. The original recipe called for pears, but this is early season for those. There were ripe white nectarines in abundance at the market and their juicy sweetness set off the other ingredients perfectly, and the browned/fried pecans added a nice nutty complexity. epicurious also called for blue cheese crumbles. Why do they always do that? Usually you don't need them. In this salad it was completely unnecessary, and would have been way too strong for the duck. It turned into a pretty damn impressive salad.The downside: now my fridge is devoid of duck, so back to Nicky USA I go!
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Duck Confit and White Nectarine Salad
adapted from epicurious
serves 4-6

ingredients:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Sherry vinegar
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot
1/2 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
2 confit duck legs
3 firm-ripe white nectarines
8 cups mixed greens, such as frisée (French curly endive), tender watercress sprigs, and baby spinach leaves

method:
Preheat oven to 225°F.

Whisk together mustard, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste in a large bowl. Add 4 tablespoons oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified, then whisk in shallot.
Heat remaining tablespoon oil in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook pecans, stirring, until golden brown. Transfer nuts with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain, then season with salt.

Heat skillet with any oil remaining in it over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, then brown duck on all sides until crisp, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and tear meat into bite-size pieces and discard bones. Keep duck warm, covered, on a baking sheet in oven.

Slice nectarine into thin wedges. Add nectarines, greens, duck, and nuts to dressing with salt and pepper to taste, then toss gently to combine.

Quick Bites PDX: Cora y Huichol Taqueria; Chinese Delicacy

CORA Y HUICHOL TAQUERIA
So I hadn't eaten all morning Sunday, was going to the 12:30 showing of Public Enemies (LOVED IT!...Michael Mann did a fabulous job with this. Beautiful movie, great acting) and had about 10 minutes to solve the blood sugar problem. Not being a member of fast food nation, that left out Mc's or the King. Which I assume is why the God of all things delicious and convenient invented taco trucks. It helped that the Cora y Huichol truck was right around the corner from the theater on SE 82nd and Holgate. It also helped that their al pastor is maybe the best I've had in the city. Tangy, tender, with just enough chili spice, these tacos for $1.25 per were spot on. I also tried the carnitas, which were pretty run of the mill. The Huichol salsas were also delicious with plenty of pop in both the rojo and verde versions. The tortillas made on premises weren't too slouchy. Not Lindo Michoacan perfection, but better than average. Beats the hell out of spending $35, or whatever they fuck you for, for a soda and popcorn at the show, don't ya think?
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CHINESE DELICACY
I was still digesting Public Enemies a few hours later and was in no mood for shopping, so suggested to my lovely bride we check out Chinese Delicacy which is just on the east end of Felony Flats south of 82nd and Foster. w was up for it and had wanted to try it. We were both hoping for that most elusive of food finds here in Portland: decent Chinese. Yummy Yummy had been a recent success so we thought we'd push our luck. Walking in and seeing all Asians is always a good thing. That may seem like racial profiling, but it's usually true. Also racial profiling: their setting a fork down for me but not for w because they thought maybe her gwai lo hubby couldn't handle the sticks. Just so you know, they had another think comin'!! A tiny box of a place, brightly lit (of course), with a remarkably limited menu for a Chinese joint. "Remarkably limited" in this case being only about 50 choices. We ordered three plates, the Chinese Delicacy bean curd; salt and pepper shrimp; and kung pao chicken. Here's the photo montage with commentary......

Chinese Delicacy bean curd, which was the best thing we had. The tofu was cooked just right, medium-firm, a flavorful sauce coating the curd and mushrooms, and underneath some super fresh micro greens of some sort. Although I'm guessing they don't call them "micro greens".

Kung Pao Peanuts....oh, I mean chicken. All I can say is they must have gotten a helluva deal on peanuts and had run out of bell peppers or any other vegetative matter for this. Plus with everything sitting in an incredibly bland sauce, this dish, which is one of w's Chinese food yardsticks, got a big pass from both of us.

Salt and Pepper Shrimp, which inexplicably seemed to lack both salt and pepper, or any other flavor. First I tried to eat the onions with it to try to get my tastebuds interested. Then I resorted to sriracha sauce. It helped, but not enough. Another pass. In fact the whole meal did nothing to make us want to return. Back to Yummy Yummy it is........

Refreshing: Grilled Halibut and Mango Salsa

A couple of days ago it was really effing hot here. 90*+, just enough humidity to give your skin that oh-so-comfortable clammy feeling. Our dog Chopper preferred to simply lay about, tongue hanging attractively out of the corner of his mouth. Nobody was very happy. But we still had to eat, right? We'd been going out maybe a little too much lately, so even with my ability to rationalize pretty much any indulgence, it seemed a good time to rein it in. There was no way the oven was going to be turned on, and although I've had this strange burger fixation lately, almost like I feel like eating them every day (I can't explain it, it just IS), I decided halibut, grilled, was the deal. But since halibut is only a vehicle for whatever sort of condiment wants to come for a ride, I needed something else. Let's see....I'm hot, sweaty, refreshment desperately needed, something cool yet with some zing to wake my palate up...tropical?...thoughts of an island, with cool waves lapping on the beach, a cold, fruity drink in hand...mmmmmmm....escape....mangos??...hell, yeah!!........

So, properly inspired, the research team came out. To the interweb I went where this kickass mango salsa recipe appeared on, of all sites, about.com (all the more surprising because I find about.com about as user friendly as an angry baboon in mating season. And don't ask me why I know this is a good analogy). I read this one over, though, and it seemed to have all the requisite palate pleasing things: mangos, fish sauce, citrus, cilantro, garlic, Thai-inspired, and super fast and easy to make. Plus the author had some great tips for trimming up the mango. This stuff really rocked, and would be great on any number of fishy plates, especially some fish tacos. Refreshment is at hand!
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Grilled Halibut with fresh mango salsa
adapted from Darlene Schmidt
(click here for printable recipe)

ingredients:
FISH:
2 fresh halibut steaks OR fillets (enough to serve 2 people)
2 Tbsp. fish sauce OR 3 Tbsp. soy sauce
2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

MANGO SALSA: (Serves 2)
2 tsp. Thai sweet chilli sauce (easily purchased at your local grocery or Asian/Chinese food store
about 1/2 cup fresh cilantro, roughly chopped
1 Tbsp. fish sauce OR 1+1/2 Tbsp. soy sauce
1 ripe mango , chopped into 1/2" cubes
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 Tbsp. lime juice
1/2 to 1 tsp. sugar, depending on how sweet your mango is

method:
1- Wash the fish portions and pat dry with a clean tea towel or paper towel. Place in a flat-bottomed bowl.
2- Mix fish sauce or soy sauce with lime juice, then pour over the fish. Turn the fish several times in this sauce.
3-Sprinkle over the black pepper, gently pressing it into both sides of the flesh. Set in the refrigerator to marinate while you prepare the salsa.
4- Slice the mangos and scoop out the flesh. Place the mango with all other salsa ingredients in food processor. Pulse for short periods, until the desired consistency is reached. Tip: You want the salsa a little on the chunky side - don't over-process or it will turn to liquid Taste-test the salsa for saltiness/sweetness. If not salty enough, add 1-2 tsp. more fish or soy sauce. If too salty, add a squeeze of lime juice. If too sour, add 1-2 tsp. more sugar. Set salsa aside.

5- Heat up your grill and lightly brush it with oil. Grill the fish 5-10 minutes per side, depending on the heat of your grill and the thickness of the fish.
Halibut Cooking Tips: Allow the fish to cook at least 2 minutes undisturbed before turning (this will help prevent sticking). After the steaks have been grilled 5 minutes on each side, use a fork to gently pull flesh apart enough to see inside. Flesh inside will turn from light pink to opaque white when cooked. Try not to overcook. If cooking indoors, pan-fry the steaks in 2 Tbsp. canola or other vegetable oil for roughly 8 minutes per side, or until done.

To serve, place fish on serving plates. If desired, make a simple bed of greens for the fish on each plate (try to include fresh basil and coriander if you have it). Drizzle the salsa over the fish. Top with a little more fresh coriander and serve with rice or potatoes.

Oh, no! Duck confit again??

You can imagine my dilemma. Having a couple of pesky duck confit legs left over from my confit project a couple of weeks ago (from this recipe; worked beautifully, maybe even better than the first time). Maybe "dilemma" isn't the right word. A dilemma would be having duck confit legs that your dog dragged off the counter and wolfed down, like "what a dilemma, I like my dog but now I'm going to have to kill him". How about "opportunity"? Much more positive.

So in the long list of ways to take advantage of this opportunity...risotto, salad, sauce, etc....a simple seasonal pasta sounded perfect, especially since w had picked up a rather large bag of fresh favas at the farmer's market. Of course as we all know a large bag of favas quickly becomes a small dish of favas (and every time I shell them, I can't help but feel sorry for the poor prep bitch at any restaurant who has to do a dinner service's worth. That would so quickly suck). In keeping this simple and light, yet really focus on the duck and favas, I only added some fennel to the mix, a little garlic, a sprinkle of parma and that was it. Obviously this recipe is endlessly adaptable with what is available at the markets right now. It's all about being a vehicle for the glory that is duck confit. If you haven't been inspired to make this duck confit before, hopefully this will spur you on. It really is SO incredibly easy. And maybe you'll find yourself with the same "dilemma" as I did!
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Duck Confit Pasta with fresh favas and fennel
an E.D.T. original
(click here for printable recipe)

ingredients:
2 duck confit legs with meat shredded off
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds fresh favas, shelled and with outer skins removed
1 large fennel bulb, chopped in half, removing fibrous cores at bottom of bulb, and sliced thinly crosswise (with some chopped fronds reserved if attached. This is optional)
3 garlic cloves, finely minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Parmigiano-Reggiano for sprinkling
1 pound dry pasta (it doesn't really matter what kind. I liked how the fusilli worked)

method:
Put large pot of water on to boil. When water comes to boil, add small handful of salt and pasta and cook until desired doneness.

While water comes to boil, add olive oil to sauté pan over medium-high heat. When pan is hot add sliced fennel and sauté until softened, about 8-10 minutes. Add garlic and cook for another 2 minutes, turn heat down to medium-low, add favas and duck ad briefly until heated through (you don't want the duck to cook any further).

Drain pasta and combine with duck-fava mixture. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Plate immediately, top with chopped fennel fronds and a drizzle of olive oil. Pass grated parma for sprinkling.

Quick Bites PDX: Garden State; Asian Station; Ziba's Pitas; Malay Satay Hut; Lindo Michoacan

This is the "Things I like to eat in Portland" edition of E.D.T.: Quick hits of some edible delights you should be indulging in...

GARDEN STATE FOOD CART
There was a collective wail of anguish heard in Sellwood when, several weeks ago, Garden State dictator Kevin Sandri decided to discontinue his pork-a-licious Porchetta Sandwich. If you are among those who have been pining ever since, salvation is at hand starting today. The porchetta is back, and based on my sample today it is better than ever. Kevin, who seemingly never seems to run out of ways to raise the bar of how good cart food can be (he does make the best meatball hero in town), has taken the art of braising a pork shoulder in a toaster oven to new heights. Starting with a locally raised, organic pork shoulder and applying various seasonings, then finishing it with a 14 hour braise, he has produced a moist, super tender sandwich filling that will be dripping delightfully down your chin with every swoon inducing bite. This is meat love at its finest!
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ASIAN STATION CAFE
As I'm sure I have made obvious, the thing that is missing in Portland is truly good, authentic Chinese food. Ever since our trip last fall where we ate our way through Shanghai and Hong Kong, I have been appalled upon my return to realize how truly mediocre the Chinese food scene is here in Portland. A glimmer of hope appeared recently at Yummy Yummy, where they seem to truly get it. But the thing I miss most are those steamed delights called Xiao Long Bao, aka Shanghai soup dumplings. We had incredible, and unbelievably cheap ones in Shanghai, and got a nice bao-fix when were in Vancouver, B.C. recently. I had heard there was a cart downtown, Asian Station, who were producing some pretty respectable bao, so the other week, with hopes high, I checked them out. I was told by the girl manning the cart their XLB are made by a friend of the cart owners. I placed my order for 8 bao, not too badly priced at $7 with rice (must...forget...Shanghai). They came out looking pretty good. I dipped it in their too-vinegary-not-gingery enough sauce (memo to the cart owner: buy some wider little plastic sauce containers since the bao are wider than to the ones you are using now), bit a hole to suck out the soup, and....and...where was the soup?? Usually you have to watch out for squirting soup. This bao was soupless. Maybe they forgot the bouillon cube. I don't know. The others had soup, but one out of eight was not a good percentage. In any event the verdict is good texture on the wrappers, the meat filling was tender and flavorful, the broth a little thinly flavored but still pretty good (I really want to like these). I'll definitely be back to try again, hoping for the best.
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ZIBA'S PITAS
Assuming you haven't had your Bosnian food fix lately (because frankly who has?) then I strongly suggest you get down to Ziba's Pitas at the food cart pod on SW Alder between 9th and 10th, where former Bosnian accountant Ziba Ljucevic is lovingly preparing these delicious stuffed pitas. Not really stuffed, like in the gyros or falafel way, not even pita bread like that. Her dough is thinly rolled out, then the fillings are layered on the dough and baked. I had 1/2 a spinach and 1/2 a beef pita, with a side of cucumber and sour cream salad and the national condiment of eastern Europe, Ajvar, a roasted red pepper spread that kicks ketchup to the curb, all for around 5 or 6 bucks for a large serving (or maybe it was the eight XLB's I had just consumed!). Ziba herself may be the sweetest person manning any cart in town. I really can't wait to explore more of her offerings.
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Malay Satay Hut
Three words: Mango Tofu Salad! At MSH in the Fubonn Plaza on SE 82nd between division and Powell I could eat plates of this. Their fried fish and noodle offerings are pretty damn good, too, but that salad rocks!








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LINDO MICHOACAN TACO TRUCK
Lindo Michoacan produces hands down the best tortillas in town. What goes on top of them (not to ignore the meaty delights that go into the tortas and burritos) is about as good as it gets in taco truck land here in Portland, but those tortillas...holy shit, they are so perfect! Hechas a mano daily on the premises at SE 34th and Division, they are just the right thickness and texture, light but not too, with actual corn flavor coming through. In the photo they are the double layered mattress for a blanket of savory, drool-worthy barbacoa. For $1.50 each are a steal! Plus they have a nicely laid out, heated outdoor seating area...other cart owners take note.

The Call of the Wild!

Okay, it wasn't exactly Jack London, or camping at altitude in the Himalayas, but there were some tense moments during our overnight camping trip July 4th which we used as a method to get our poor dogs as far away from fireworks trauma as possible. There was that moment where I was frozen in fear that I had left my can opener at home (luckily my man K had a backup). Then the terror that took hold when I couldn't find the corkscrew to open that 2002 Cali Cab. When I did manage to dig it out of the glove box of my car, the collective sigh of relief was probably heard around the campground! Such was just a sampling of the drama during our "adventure" to the beautiful, and easily accessible from Portland, Paradise Creek campground in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest.

My oft-repeated mantra is "just because one is staying in the wild doesn't mean one has to become wild". Luckily my friend Denise believes this as well (much to the consternation of our respective spouses K & w, who both have to keep telling us...repeatedly..."we're just going away for one night, you know"). This trip it all came together for everyone I think, starting when, after setting up our "base camp", K made a batch of his refreshing Manhattans (left in process and below right two happy campers, k on left, moi on right) which immediately made me feel more in touch with nature. That was followed by some delicious artisan cheeses, some foie gras that I had brought back from France a couple of years ago (which makes this my response to the foie gras protesters mentioned in yesterday's post), more cocktails and wine, then the piéce de resistance, thick NY Steaks grilled over the campfire with grilled fresh ears of corn. And luckily I managed to save enough foie to smear a nice thick slice over the tops of the steaks. Decadence you are my mine! Steak and foie.....so wrong and yet SO right! Washed down with several glasses of red (and the 2002 Alexander Valley Vineyards "Estate" Cabernet was drinking perfectly), calling this satisfying doesn't even come close. And don't tell me we weren't roughing it. Did you notice we were eating off of paper plates?!

The finshed product, with luscious foie melting on top...yummm!

Your scribe, multi-tasking to get food to the table!

Foie gras protesters: put down your signs and read this!

A great open letter to the misguided foie gras protesters of our land by a Portland restaurant owner. Very well written and reasoned.
http://pdxplate.com/forum/an-open-letter-foie-protesters